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Naga Shawls of Nagaland: Symbolism, Patterns and Modern Revival in North East Handicrafts


  Nagaland is a kind of state where many tribes of different kinds reside together peacefully. The shawls of Nagaland have a lot of fame because they are not only mere shawls; in fact they are like the status symbols of the North east. Some people even think of these shawls as family heirlooms. Therefore, when it comes to “Naga Shawls of Nagaland: Symbolism, Patterns and Modern Revival in North East Handicrafts”, they have deep roots in the society and the people are very particular about the patterns, the color and the designs of the shawls.

Meaning of the Naga Shawls

Meaning


When it comes to “Naga Shawls of Nagaland: Symbolism, Patterns and Modern Revival in North East Handicrafts”, all these shawls are given or handed over as a part of tradition. They are woven in different ways and they help you in understanding the merit and status of a particular person. These shawls were originally given to those soldiers who had killed enemies in battles or if they had performed some kind of sacrifice. They made the other people understand how brave these soldiers were  and created utmost respect for their achievement. They ended up being powerful symbols of honor. These shawls were also gifted to the elders of the village who had been of help to the village in some way.
The motifs of the shawls were often symbolic in nature. For example, sometimes there were the motifs of Mithun or an elephants or a tiger. Sometimes, there were motifs of weapons like a knife or a sword or a spear which was an implication of hunting. Sometimes, there were spots of geometric shapes like diamonds or lozenges or the sun or the moon. All of these motifs mean something different and only a particular tribe of people can wear them. The meanings varied a lot; some embodied fertility while some were a sign of valor.

The Patterns of the Shawls


When it comes to “Naga Shawls of Nagaland: Symbolism, Patterns and Modern Revival in North East Handicrafts”, most of these shawls were in black or red color. The color of red symbolized courage or sacrifices made by soldiers. Black meant how strong a person was. White showcased the amount of purity possessed by a person. When it came to patterns, horizontal stripes were common in all the shawls. There used to be a primary band with all the motifs drawn on it. The central white band was also called the Tsungkotepsu and it was often ornamented with beads. The other tribes used different forms of panel work. The status was showcased by how the bands were positioned, how wide the bands were and how many motifs were in the band.

The Different Types of Tribes

Shawl


As mentioned above, Nagaland has a number of tribes and they all possess a variety of Naga shawls. For example, the Ao tribe is the most common. It has motifs of the tiger, the heads of humans, the cock as well as the spear.
On the other hand, the Lotha tribe has Naga shawls with very vibrant and gold geometric patterns. They use colors that contrast heavily with each other and you would often be able to spot zigzag patterns on their shawls. These shawls are often worn during the time of festivals or during any ceremony.
The most intricate motifs are found in the Chakhesang tribe which are geometric in nature. You can recognise them by their use of sharp colors. In fact, this tribe has also received the Geographical Indication Tag which allows them to protect their designs that are very special to them.

Author

Shreeja Mukherjee

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